Chinese Delicacies

Chef Sam Leong picks up a huge, dried, ugly looking shark's fin and makes like he's about to do a mock guitar riff. It doesn't look like something you'd want to bring home and mount on your bedroom wall, but once Chef Leong is through with it in the kitchen, you can bet it will taste ambrosial. But ambrosial tastes rarely come cheap and as Tung Lok's director of kitchens picks his way through the wares at Chin Guan Hong (Sharksfin) Pte Ltd in North Canal Road, you are amazed at the variety of dried exotic ingredients the shop sells, and even more so at the prices. Figure on paying upwards of S$1,000 a kg for gnarled pieces of golden yellow fish maw, all the way up to S$4,000, at retail prices. And if you have a fondness for abalone, one piece of four-head abalone can cost more than S$2,000 for something that weighs barely 150 gm. Still, even if you're not into paying such prices, there's decent quality stuff that you can still buy at relatively affordable prices - you just need to know how to choose the best. And so, we sought out the help of the experts: Chef Leong, Chef Chan Kwok of Hua Ting restaurant, and Dennis Yio, a director of Chin Guan Hong. Here, then is your one-stop guide to choosing, preparing and cooking your favourite Chinese New Year foods, with recipes to guide you along. FISH MAW Not to be confused with the fried variety that turn into soft spongy blobs when cooked in the Peranakan or Thai hee piow soup, fish maw is known as fa gow, and is the dried air bladder of the fish that is used mainly in double-boiled soups and is known to be good for the complexion. In the S$5,000 pen cai offered by Tam Kah Sharksfin restaurant, the fish maw it used was supposed to be 30 years old, costing some several thousand dollars per kg. Mr Yio of Chin Guan Hong says that like red wine, shark's fin and fish maw get better with age. Chef Chan Kwok of the acclaimed Hua Ting in Orchard Hotel, though, feels that generally the age of the fish maw is not really an indication of its quality. Rather, it's more the inherent quality of the fish maw itself, as in the thickness, colour and texture, which of course also comes through with age. 'The best fish maw come from India and are from male and female fish. It's hard to tell, but the male fish maw is usually thicker and therefore of better quality. When you choose, it has to be very dry, and very firm, hard enough for you to be able to knock it against a table. Look at the colour, it has to be deep yellow, the deeper the better.' And for decent quality fish maw, there's no need to pay four figure sums, as you can get perfectly acceptable quality for around S$120 to S$160 a kg, he adds. 'It takes a long time to prepare and to cook, which adds to the cost,' says Chef Chan. 'You have to soak it for a few hours, then cover it with boiling water overnight, and repeat the process if it's still not soft enough.' What's the best way to cook fish maw? Mainly double-boiled soups, says Chef Chan. Chef Leong, in turn, recommends that it be cooked in oyster sauce. ABALONE The best ones come from Japan, and are usually categorised according to the number of 'heads'. But it doesn't mean that the shellfish come with a different number of protrusions dictated by its quality. Rather it refers to the number of abalone pieces found in one kati which translates into 600 gm. Hence, the higher the number of abalones in one kati, the lower the price. The best ones are of course from Japan, says Mr Yio, who adds that the 10-head Oma abalones are used 'to serve distinguished guests'. At S$4,000 a kg, they should be distinguished. Lesser mortals will have to make do with S$400-S$500 a kg specimens from South Africa. Preparation can be a killer, though, so no wonder the canned version is a lot more popular in homes. According to Chef Leong, it needs to be soaked in cold water for two days and poached in hot water with ginger for 30 minutes. After that, you braise the abalone with a mixture of chicken feet, chicken, lean pork and pork fat (all pre-blanched in hot water and then sauteed with spring onion and ginger), chicken stock, oyster sauce and a bit of rock sugar for eight to 15 hours. Still game? SHARK'S FIN The environmentally conscious might want to skip this part. The best shark's fin comes from India and Indonesia, especially the big ones, says Mr Yio, while smaller fins are from the UK. Top quality fins, ie superior dried tiger shark's fin which come in 20-inch lengths, cost around $900 to S$1,000 per kg. Smaller fins of about 2 to 3 inches can cost around S$80 a kg. In terms of preparation, Chef Leong says the shark's fin should be steamed without adding any water (to the fin) for 30 minutes, which will make it shrink. Soak in water overnight for at least 12 hours to let it expand, and then steam it for another four hours until it's soft. It's then ready to be cooked in soup or braised, as Chef Leong recommends. SEA CUCUMBER Sea cucumber has gone up in price this year due to the recent floods, says Mr Yio, although it's a little hard to fathom given that they come from India or Hokkaido rather than Johor. Nonetheless, the dried Hokkaido sea cucumbers are prized the most - they look like prickly cucumbers and can cost from S$700 to S$800 a kg. Cheaper ones from India can be had for around S$90 a kg. When buying sea cucumbers, Mr Yio says to look out for the thickness of the flesh. The colour shouldn't be too light. It should be semi-dark and translucent. According to Chef Chan, the smaller ones are softer and literally dissolve if you cook them too long, whereas the bigger ones have more 'bite' and an al dente texture. To prepare, Chef Leong's tips include grilling the sea cucumber first to get rid of the preservatives, and use a knife to scrape off the resulting crust. Boil water, toss the sea cucumber in, cover and leave overnight. Soak in clean water for another 12 hours. Repeat the hot water/cold soak process if it's still not soft enough. Cut the softened sea cucumber in the middle and clean out the insides. It's now ready to be stewed, braised or cooked in oyster sauce. DRIED SCALLOP The bigger the better, say the experts. And give them a good whiff before you buy - if it smells sweet and of the sea, it's good. Make sure they are very dry and not at all damp. The best ones come from Hokkaido and retail at S$195 a kg. Smaller ones from other parts of Japan retail at S$145 per kg. These are easy to prepare. Chef Leong says to soak them in cold water overnight and throw the water away. Add some chicken stock, sliced ginger, spring onion and a bit of salt, and steam for 45 minutes. Chef Leong recommends that dried scallops are best used in soups. BIRD'S NEST The best quality are those collected from wild sparrows which live in caves, says Mr Yio, and the price is a heartstopping S$7,500 per kg. But if you get the 'farmed' version, ie from specially built homes used for breeding swallows, the price drops to a more affordable S$1,000 a kg. If opening a bottle of ready-to-eat bird's nest is no challenge to you, then soak the nest in water for six hours, says Chef Leong. Remove the dirty bits and steam with sliced ginger in hot water for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the quality. It's best used in desserts and soups, he adds. BAMBOO FUNGUS A not so common ingredient, the good stuff doesn't come cheap. Wild bamboo fungus from China retails at S$480 a kg, says Mr Yio, although the Fujian variety costs less than a 10th of this at just S$40 a kg. What do you do with it? Chef Leong says to soak it in cold water for three hours, bring it to boil with a piece of ginger for 15 minutes, and soak in cold water for two hours. Then double-boil it in your favourite soup. DRIED MUSHROOMS Tired of getting gifts of mushrooms you don't know what to do with? If you're lucky, you might be holding on to a pack of Japanese flower mushrooms that cost S$160 a kg. These beauties are firm, round and plump, almost white, with a pattern of crack lines on the surface and smell fragrant. Other lesser quality mushrooms are from China and cost about S$30 to S$40 a kg. To prepare, Chef Leong says to simply soak them overnight in cold water. Poach them for 15 minutes with a bit of ginger. Stir fry them in oil with ginger and spring onions, add chicken consomme and braise for three hours. Source: The Business Times (Singapore)

Best Of Tawau By Axian

Getting The Best Out Of Fishy Treat

The fish maw is an uncommon ingredient even in the best of Chinese restaurants. Properly identified and handled, it can be used in many premium dishes. Chef Bong Jung Choi of Lai Poh Heen restaurant shares cooking tips and recipes.

Known in Cantonese as fa kau, the fish maw refers to the fish’s stomach that has been extracted, cleaned and sun-dried whole. However, the term “fish maw” is often erroneously used to refer to the fish bladder (or swim bladder), or yue piu in Cantonese.

The dried fish bladder looks similar to the fish maw in terms of colour, texture and shape, hence the identity mix-up, explains Margaret Hiah of dried seafood suppliers, Kwang Yeow Heng (Tel: 03-2078 0969).

Maw expert: Bong Jun Choi, executive chef of Lai Poh Heen restaurant, Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur.

The uninitiated may not be able to tell the two apart in their dried forms, but luckily, fish bladder is often sold deep fried and the golden puffs look quite distinctive. Fish maw is never deep fried while fish bladder has to be deep fried (and often soaked) before cooking.

When reconstituted, the fish maw is white with a silky smooth texture; after cooking, the texture is akin to a puffy marshmallow. The taste is mildly fishy, but otherwise bland, so it is often braised or double-boiled in soups and stocks to infuse it with flavour.

It is expensive, and considered a premium delicacy valued for its curative properties and slippery, gelatinous texture not unlike the sea cucumber.

Fish maw is harvested from various kinds of fish species from the seas around Myanmar, Thailand, India, New Zealand and the United States of America. The most prized fish maw is said to be extracted from the croaker fish due to its large size and thick stomach walls.

Generally, fish maw extracted from larger fishes are more valuable, although most dried seafood shops in Kuala Lumpur are unable to identify what fish species the maw is extracted from as they are sold based on their origins.

Health benefits

The collagen-rich fish maw is popular among beauty-conscious Chinese women as it has a reputation of being able to enhance the facial complexion. “Some of my customers choose fish maw over bird’s nest – another complexion food – as the fish maw is relatively cheaper,” says Hiah.

“The fish maw is believed to be highly nutritive and especially good for the lungs, and curing persistent coughs and asthma. In the days when tuberculosis did not have a cure, fish maw was boiled and drank as a cure,” she adds.

Some purists boil the fish maw on its own until it melts and drink it neat, but for others who can’t swallow the fishy aftertaste, Hiah recommends boiling it with a few red dates and rock sugar to sweeten it.

It is also said to be beneficial in the treatment of gout and arthritis, and as an overall health tonic for those recovering from illnesses.

Choosing fish maw

Dried fish maw comes in various shapes and sizes, ranging from elongated, curved pieces to large, flat pieces. “Look for thick ones with smooth sides,” Hiah advises.

Chef Bong Jun Choi of Mandarin Oriental hotel’s Lai Poh Heen restaurant concurs: “The thickness is important as it means the fish maw will expand after it is soaked. Thinner varieties can expand up to two times their size, while thicker pieces can expand up to five times their size.”

Colour is another indicator of the value of the fish maw, with bigger price tags attached to the deeper hues; Hiah recommends those with a deep yellow or golden hue. Some fish maw pieces have dark colour patches. “This is the dried fish blood, which some customers actually prefer even though it gives a fishy taste to the fish maw,” she says.

She notes that fish maw from Asian countries like Myanmar is generally priced one third lower than those sourced from the oceans around New Zealand as their size is smaller and the colour is lighter.

Another price determiner is the sex of the fish: fish maw from a male fish fetches a higher price than its female counterpart due to its thickness.

Storage tips

Like other prized dried Chinese delicacies such as scallops, shark’s fin and bird’s nest, dried fish maw gets better with age. For instance, a piece of dried fish maw kept for more than 40 years is estimated to be worth RM3,000 per kg at Kwang Yeow Heng.

“With time, the dried fish maw’s colour will darken and deepen, making the flavour more concentrated and less fishy,” Hiah explains. She recommends storing dried fish maw in a dry container.

Once reconstituted, the fish maw can be stored in the refrigerator for a week, but “you need to keep it cool or it will become fishy and slimy, so place it in a container with ice cubes,” Bong advises. Storing in the freezer is not advisable, as the reconstituted fish maw will shrink in size.

Reconstituting fish maw

Fish maw is only sold in the dried form and needs to be reconstituted before cooking. Chef Bong recommends covering the dried fish maw in boiling water and leaving it to soak, covered, for at least two days, repeating the process if the fish maw is not soft enough.

Stir-fried Shredded Fish Maw with Eggs in Crispy Golden Cup

(10 servings)

Crispy golden cup

20 pieces square wonton skins
Oil for deep frying

5 eggs
300g reconstituted fish maw, cut into fine strips
50g reconstituted sea cucumber, cut into fine strips
20g canned abalone, cut into fine strips
10g carrot, cut into fine strips
10g spring onion, cut into fine strips
20g fresh shiitake mushroom, cut into fine strips
20g fresh button mushroom, cut into fine strips
50g cooked crab meat, flaked
50g dried scallops, soaked, steamed and flaked

Seasoning

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon fish stock powder
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon white pepper powder
1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons cooking oil

To prepare crispy golden cup: Heat the oil for deep frying. Overlap two wonton skins to form star shape and sandwich between two mini tartlet tins. Lower into hot oil and deep fry until golden brown. Remove and drain excess oil.

To stir-fry eggs: Crack eggs into a mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients and seasoning; mix well. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. When hot, pour in egg mixture and lower heat. Stir-fry the egg mixture continuously, stirring with a pair of chopsticks, until egg is set, fragrant and golden brown. Dish out.

To serve: Arrange crispy golden cups on a plate. Scoop stir-fried eggs into cups. Serve immedia tely.

Fish Maw with Shredded Sea Treasures & Spinach in Broth

(10 servings)

2 litres fish stock*
100g reconstituted fish maw, cut into fine strips
50g canned abalone, cut into fine strips
50g reconstituted sea cucumber, cut into fine strips
50g dried scallops, soaked, steamed and flaked
50g cooked crabmeat, flaked

Seasoning

1 tablespoon fish stock powder
½ tablespoon salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon pepper

100g spinach, sliced finely
50g cornflour, mixed with 500ml water

In a large pot, combine all the ingredients, except the spinach and cornflour mixture; bring to a boil. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Add spinach and cornflour mixture to thicken broth. When it returns to a boil, remove from heat and serve immediately.

*Fish stock (makes 2 litres)

You can use any white fish except mackerel to make the stock.

3 litres water
1kg garoupa or snapper fish bones
150g celery, diced
150g carrot, diced
50g onion, diced

Place all the ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 to 1½ hours. Remove from heat and strain. Cool before using.

Double-boiled Fish Maw with Cordyceps Flower in Chicken Consomme

(10 servings)

1.2kg chicken fillet, cut into 20 pieces
2 litres chicken consommé*
150g reconstituted fish maw, cut into
2cm square pieces
10 Chinese mushrooms, soaked until softened
10g cordyceps flower (tong chong ho fa), washed and drained

Seasoning

1 tablespoon chicken stock powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper powder

A handful of boxthorn berries (kei chi), rinsed, soaked for 5 minutes

Poach chicken pieces in boiling water for 2 minutes; drain and place in a double-boiler pot.

Add chicken consommé, fish maw, mushrooms, tong chong cho fa and seasoning.

Season to taste and double-boil over low heat for 45 minutes.

Remove from heat, add the kei chi and serve hot.

*Chicken consomme (makes 3 litres) and drained

3kg chicken meat, minced
600g Chinese cabbage, chopped
600g carrot, chopped
5 litres water

Place all ingredients in a large pot; bring to a boil. The minced meat will float to the top.

Lower heat and simmer for 5 hours. Remove from heat and strain. Cool stock before using.

Stewed Fish Maw with Abalone and Asparagus

(10 servings)

2 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon dried sole fish powder (chor hau yue)
1 litre fish stock
300g reconstituted fish maw, cut into ten 2cm square pieces
10 pieces whole canned abalone

Seasoning

5 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ teaspoon dark soy sauce
¼ teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt

600g large green asparagus,woody stems removed
200g Shimeiji mushrooms

In a wok, heat the oil over medium heat. Add dried fish powder. Stir-fry until fragrant.

Add fish stock, fish maw and abalone. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Add seasoning to taste. Remove from heat.

In a clean wok, heat oil over medium heat. Sauté asparagus and mushrooms for one minute. Remove from heat.

Plate the fish maw and abalone, with the asparagus and mushrooms arranged on the side. Pour in enough sauce to cover. Serve im mediately.

Source: The Star